On Celtic Tides - One Man's Journey Around Ireland With a Sea Kayak - A Book Review

Chris Duff has always been a man more at home injourney and be alone with the winds and the waves.
the water than out of it. He was working with theThe powerful force of the Irish landscape and the
US Navy in Holy Loch, Scotland in 1982 when hisIrish people, however, makes its mark upon him. He
enlistment period ended. Faced with the difficultbegins to feel not only a sense of belonging but a
decision of whether or not to re-enlist, he opted tosense of wonder and of loss. As he walks through
return to civilian life. Soon the dream of an Irishtangles of wildflowers on a deserted island, he comes
journey would be born.across ruins of stone cottages and chapels and the
Chris tried several trades, at one point working inhistory of the place pours forth to ensnare him as it
upstate New York as a butcher's assistant to an oldhas done to so many others. He muses:
couple from Ireland. When he asked where the old"Across the narrow waterway two stone house ruins
man was from he was told the Aran Islands. Forstood bathed in the last rays of sun. The island,
those of us who love Ireland it brings delightfulradiant in the evening light, looked as if it was an
visions of stone cottages and late night musicenchanted fairy tale land. Shadows of stone walls
sessions into our heads. The couple pulled a coffeedivided green meadows, and the cap of rock that
table book off a shelf and opened it to some strikingbroke through at the top of the island looked like a
images of the Aran Islands and its people - roughplace where fairies might dance..."
seas, steep rock cliffs, stone houses, skin-coveredI found it a pleasure to travel the circumference of
boats called currachs and rugged, wind-worn faces.the Emerald Isle with a philosophizing "American
Our man Chris was captivated by the wild seacanoeist." His courage in the face of the wild waves
surrounding that beautiful island and a seed was sownof the west coast is mind-boggling to a land lubber
in his brain that would grow and give birth to alike myself. At one point he lands safely on some
life-changing Celtic adventure fourteen years later.remote shore only to be greeted by a local
Chris's decision to kayak around Ireland was not theemergency crew that was looking for him. Someone
first such journey for him. He embodies the spirit ofhad spotted him "struggling" in the waves and
adventure that many of us only dream about. He hadthought he was in distress. Meanwhile he had been
kayaked around the US and Canada - twelve monthshaving the time of his life happily battling the waves!
and 8000 miles. He had also circumnavigated GreatThe names of the landmarks of his journey ring like a
Britain - five and a half months and 3000 miles.cast of famous actors with cameos in a blockbuster
Ireland, however, with its wild seas and unprotectedfilm - Mizen Head, Dursey Head, the Skelligs, Dingle
west coast, with powerful waves meeting the firstBay, the Blaskets, The River Shannon, Galway Bay,
landfall of Europe, would be a different story entirely.the Cliffs of Moher, the Aran Islands, Clare Island -
The starting point is Dublin's famous River Liffey onand more! The list goes on. It truly is a cast of
June 1, 1996. The sacred vessel of the journey, anremarkable characters and keeps you guessing which
eighteen foot sea kayak loaded with one hundredone will walk on stage next.
pounds of food, water and camping gear, a journalWhen visiting the Blasket Islands, which were
wrapped in plastic for safe keeping and a map of theabandoned reluctantly by the villagers in the 1950's,
Irish coast carefully splash-guarded at the helm. AsChris comments that in a kayak the paddler always
Chris begins his travels he shares with us his blessingssits facing forward. In the traditional Irish currach,
- ten years of carpentry work had allowed him tohowever, the oarsmen face the rear of the boat and
save enough to take this precious time off for thiswatch their wake. This last view of their island must
adventure, to "take the time and just be quiet for ahave been quite painful for the villagers as they
few months." Few of us have ever know that luxuryrowed further and further away from the ancestral
but he has worked hard for it and appreciates it;home of their kin.
lucky for us he shares every moment so we canThe people along the way are uniquely Irish.
enjoy it vicariously through his words.Whenever Chris emerges from the sea, seemingly
What struck me most about Chris's writing is theout of nowhere, he is met with remarks of disbelief.
mystery and wonder with which he regards the"You've come from Dublin in that?! I think y'er mad."
beauties of nature around him, particularly the westThe kindness to strangers has always been the
coast of Ireland, where stark cliffs are pounded byhallmark of Irish hospitality; thousands of years ago it
strong seas and winds whip wildly. At times hewas actually mandated by the Brehon laws of the
kayaks into sea caves along the coast and paddles inland. It simply seems second nature to a generous
the semi-darkness and one feels his reverence forpeople. The fishermen who casually hand him a few
what nature has wrought in our landscape.lobster claws or some cleaned fish for his dinner,
Ireland's coastline is simply mad with bird life,along with advice about his crossing. The housewife
particular the islands off the coast. At one point awho makes him dinner and asks him to join the
large-winged fulmar watches him curiously, floating infamily by the fire for a night of storytelling. The
the air and staring him in the eyes. Chris says to himcouple who rise at dawn to see him off on the next
"You are so beautiful my friend. What have you seenleg of his journey. The fellow kayaker in Galway who
and where have you been today?" There is agives him a place to stay and relax after a spell of
timelessness in the eyes of such a bird, that canbad weather and helps carry his heavy kayak
make us feel our insignificance in the face of Motherthrough the crowded streets of the city. It is only
Nature. Chris visits islands rich with bird colonies -sadly in the north of Ireland, where the troubles
cormorants, puffins, shags, fulmars, kittiwakes,were still raging, where his knock at a door is met
guillemots, gannets, razorbills - by the thousands.with suspicion and fear rather than a smile and a
They are all very tolerant of his presence and simplywarm welcome by the fire.
accept him rather than flying into a frenzy at hisIreland is a revelation to our kayaker friend. He is
approach as one would expect. It's a bird watcher'sawed by the natural beauty of windswept islands and
paradise.cliff-lined coasts, drawn to the friendly people,
Along the journey, Chris visits numerous islands -bewildered by the sheer volume of history bursting
some with names that sound familiar like Skelligfrom the seams of the landscape and humbled by
Michael and Clare Island, others that are tiny dots onthe mysterious sacredness he feels. He has a gift for
the ocean landscape. In foul weather he sits out thestorytelling, for describing a scene down to the last
wind and waves, peering from his tent at the stormrays of the sun, that may well be proof of his Irish
outside, waiting for a break in the weather. He takesancestry.
us with him as he sleeps in a beehive hut or paddlesTo those who are faint of heart, there are scenes in
under a waterfall near Dingle Bay to take a coldthis book which are truly harrowing. Chris paddles
freshwater shower or even goes religiously pubover waves that would frighten the be-jaysus out of
hopping from session to session in the busy pubyou and me and navigates around submerged rocks
town of Dingle.that could puncture his wee kayak and drown him.
What is remarkable is that unlike many with IrishBut truth be told, he does finish his journey safely.
ancestry, Chris Duff did not come to Ireland to seekAs the old saying goes, he "lives to tell the tale." So
his past. He wanted to enjoy a challenging kayakingenjoy every beautiful and hair raising second of it!