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Article #369: Taking the Train in Japan

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For new arrivals in Japan riding trains determination of a fullback sprinting
quickly becomes a necessity of life. toward the end zone. This same
Taking on the challenge of a crowded inclination to bump and jostle is
morning rush hour train is a right of obviously to be expected in a city of
passage, and foreigners who pass this fifteen million, but care should be taken
grueling test are promoted to the ranks when walking along crowded platforms,
of those tenacious individuals able to especially in late evening when salarymen
adapt to this country's major form of staggering home after a night of drinking
transportation. Scenes viewed on have been known to accidentally nudge
television or in magazines of white commuters off the edge onto the tracks
gloved conductors pushing throngs of below.
commuters into crammed compartments are Another potentially lethal hazard stems
unfortunately a reality, and anyone bold from gaps that can be found on various
enough to literally jump into this melee station platforms. Although trains in
will experience the claustrophobic's Japan are an engineering marvel,
worst nightmare. oversights were obviously made when
My initial encounter with rush hour in designing the tracks in relationship to
Tokyo was on a Monday morning, and I was certain platforms. A number of stations
due to report bright and early for my contain very large spaces between the
first teaching job thirty minutes away by train and platform, and upon entering the
train. With the naivety of a novice rider carriage you find yourself carefully
I patiently waited for the crowd on the stepping over them like a mountaineer
platform to disperse, convinced there was negotiating crevices. Some of the gaps
no possible way to physically enter the are large enough to consume an adult or
packed carriage. Allowing several cars to child, as I was witness to one Spring
pass I realized that if I didn't board afternoon in Akasaka station. Sitting
the train soon I would be late for my near the entrance I suddenly heard a
first day of work. Eventually forcing my shrill scream of panic erupt from a
way into the compartment I was engulfed female passenger attempting to board.
by a multitude of bodies compressed into Apparently as she and her young daughter
one cohesive mass which swayed entered the compartment, the girl
uncontrollably with each erratic surge of inadvertently slipped between the train
the train, my freedom of movement and platform onto the tracks, the
relinquished entirely. This seemingly distraught mother desperately pulling her
endless ordeal continued until the next trembling daughter back onto the train
station, when for a brief moment seconds before the doors shut
passengers would frantically disembark, automatically.
only to be replaced seconds later by Women riding trains also have a special
another group vehemently intent on concern; gropers known as "Chikans" are
entering the car at the same time. I famous for fondling women on trains so
realized I would never survive thirty crowded it's often impossible to
minutes of this pandemonium, and found determine with certainty who the offender
myself fighting my way off the train at is. Though Japanese women have recently
the next stop. I decided the only become more aggressive confronting these
solution to the dilemma was to find molesters, the incidence of assaults has
accommodation within walking distance of been steadily rising each year to such an
the office, or to establish a schedule extent that one of the main train lines
that would allow me to avoid the in Tokyo has now incorporated a "women
inevitable crowded conditions that exist only" car to accommodate those wishing to
in any major Japanese city from the ride without fear of being accosted.
morning hours of seven to nine. Despite the crowded conditions and
In addition to the horrors of rush hour negative aspects of riding trains in
there are other pitfalls that newcomers Japan as previously mentioned, the
should be aware of when riding trains in Japanese rail system still maintains a
Japan. The reputation of the Japanese as reputation as one of the most efficient
being polite is very accurate, but in in the world. Punctuality is almost
regard to getting on and off of trains guaranteed, and frequency of departures
this noble trait often seems to vanish. and arrivals is truly impressive, with a
Caution should be exercised as you enter waiting time of only a few minutes
or exit the carriage due to the number of between trains, and a maximum of only ten
impatient passengers who feel the need to minutes on smaller lines servicing
aggressively push and shove. Some of the outlining areas. Japanese trains are also
worst offenders are "gray haired little among the cleanest and safest in the
old ladies" who upon seeing a rare empty world, and accidents or breakdowns are
train seat make a bee line for this almost non existent.
coveted spot with the dexterity and






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